Hiking in France - Day 10 (Gorges du Verdon)

August 17th, 2006

Read previous "Hiking in France" posts:
Hiking in France - Day 1 (Paris)
Hiking in France - Day 2 (Paris, Marseilles)
Hiking in France - Day 3 (Marseilles, Cassis, Calanques)
Hiking in France - Day 4 (Cassis, les Calanques)
Hiking in France - Day 5 (Marseille, Manosque)
Hiking in France - Day 6 (GR4 Manosque to Greoux-les-Bains)
Hiking in France - Day 7 (GR4 Greoux-les-Bains to Riez)
Hiking in France - Day 8 (GR4 Riez to Moustiers Ste-Marie)
Hiking in France - Day 9 (GR4 La Palud to Chalet de la Maline)

What a wonderful feeling: waking up on the edge of a panoramic gorge, watching the sun pouring slowly down the far side of the canyon as it rises above the rim. We packed up early and set off in great anticipation of a day spent in the bowels of the Gorges du Verdon. We weren’t disappointed. The trail quickly begins a steep descent through the trees, zigzagging down the cliff to the Verdon River flowing in azure curves below. We soon found ourselves walking a gently rolling trail just above the level of the water, getting glimpses of the sandy banks and the cavernous bowls carved into the side of the canyon by the meandering stream. It was simply amazing to stand at the bottom of the canyon and look up at the towering weight of all that rock, seemingly piled on top of you, up to the forested rim high above. In several places the entire vertical length of the canyon wall was covered in small scrub trees clinging impossibly to some miniscule crack in the cliff.

There were some amazing obstacles on the trail that really made it enjoyable. About halfway through you come to a point where the trail can’t continue along the riverbanks—they are too steep. So the path goes up a really steep draw right over a bend in the river. On the other side are steel stairways (ladders, really) that descend for so long you almost wonder where the bottom is. At the apex of this point, between the steep climb and the stairway descent, is a viewpoint where you are literally hanging over the river on a jutting piece of rock. Quite disconcerting but very beautiful.

During the hike we were glad for two things: first, that we set out earlier than anyone else (we didn’t run into other hikers until about three-quarters through the hike, coming from the opposite direction). The other plus was that we missed the hottest part of the day, which even in the shadows of the canyon was warm enough.

Some time after leaving the stairs we suddenly felt a very cold draft of air. Looking left you realize that this comes from a horizontal tunnel cut through the rock and littered with the remains of a cart track. The entrance to one of these tunnels is the local toilet (as evidenced by the ubiquitous flutter of half-buried toilet paper). Further along, the trail itself goes through a series of these tunnels, one quite long where a light is mandatory. We switched on our headlamps and walked for at least 15-20 minutes through the tunnel. At several points there are holes cut in the wall, overlooking deep pools in the river and places where someone has obviously been climbing. By the frayed ends of the ropes one could almost imagine the rock climber’s rope snapping, sending them hurtling to the depths below….

Right before the tunnels we began to see people coming from the opposite direction. We emerged into the sun at the parking lot of Point Sublime above the canyon only 4-5 hours after leaving the Chalet—much quicker than the signs which all said seven hours of hiking.

From the parking lot we walked up and out of the canyon, following the GR4 up to the village of Rougon. This was actually the most challenging part of the hike, but the spectacular views continued. We climbed slowly up a very steep trail, and looking back, could see right down the throat of the Gorges du Verdon. This was my personal favorite view of the trip.

Rougon is a very small village perched, like many ancient settlements in the area, on the cusp of an impossible hill. If the town’s hill weren’t enough, it is also overshadowed by a jutting projection on which workers were restoring an old fortified wall. Our original intent had been to camp somewhere near the town, but unfortunately the municipal campsite had been closed. The lady running the village’s only restaurant / store / post office helped us find a woman who rents out a small house to tourists. So we got the entire house to ourselves for €50. I think Kayla was grateful. I know I was—they had a selection of English-language books and we spent a pleasant evening reading and eating with our hiking boots at a safe distance.