Hiking in France - Day 8 (GR4 Riez to Moustiers Ste-Marie)

August 17th, 2006

Read previous "Hiking in France" posts:
Hiking in France - Day 1 (Paris)
Hiking in France - Day 2 (Paris, Marseilles)
Hiking in France - Day 3 (Marseilles, Cassis, Calanques)
Hiking in France - Day 4 (Cassis, les Calanques)
Hiking in France - Day 5 (Marseille, Manosque)
Hiking in France - Day 6 (GR4 Manosque to Greoux-les-Bains)
Hiking in France - Day 7 (GR4 Greoux-les-Bains to Riez)

On Day Eight we finally arrived in the mountains. Most of the day was spent on the plateau, but about halfway between Riez and Moustiers we began to see views down into the canyon that separates the plateau from the mountains. We also glimpsed the bright-blue Lac de Ste-Croix far below to the south. Right before descending the plateau we met a couple in their 40's from the Netherlands who were hiking the same route as us. These were the first people we met who were hiking the GR4.

After scrambling down a poorly-marked trail to the valley floor, we walked through a beautiful pastoral scene and up into the town of Moustiers Ste-Marie. This was the most picturesque village we visited on our route--most of the buildings are perched along the side of a foothill which quickly turns to stunning red-pink cliffs where a medieval church hangs poised in a gap in the mountains. The town is split in half by a deep ravine fed by a stream from the mountains. The place was crawling with French tourists and camera-toting Europeans trying to navigate the narrow highway in their RV's.

Kayla wrote:

9 a.m. --- We just ate quiche and a baguette for breakfast and are on our way from Riez to Moustiers Ste-Marie. Four and a half hours supposedly!

9:45 a.m. – Our journey to Moustiers was good—five hours including a thirty-minute lunch so we were on track. When we get to a new village we have to find the Centre Ville and the Office du Tourisme to find a camping site (which is usually out of town slightly). So the tent was up by 3 p.m. While James showered I read and rested. Then we went back to town about 4:30 to find some dinner and wander through the shops. This town has so many beautiful linens—I wish we could buy a new quilt and pillows specially made in Provence and mail it back… we’re not made of money. The pottery here is especially famous too. I’ll try to find a small piece at the end of our trip to bring back home.

Tomorrow we’re going to get a ride (hitchhike or taxi) to La Palud so we can start our two-day Gorges du Verdon hike. We’ve been “getting here” for three days now since we left Manosque Saturday morning. I’m tired… sore joints and aching muscles but a good feeling—though I wish my pack could carry itself! James has blisters on both feet and has been using lots of moleskin—good thing we have it. My leg and backside (where the pack rests) have heat rashes but I’m really okay. Funny thing—at camp this morning a man greeted me with “Mornin’” and I responded “Bonjour” without thinking because I’m so used to greeting everyone that way.

We called home and talked to Jeremiah, Mom and Dad briefly. Jeremiah said “yeah” and “I do know” a lot. Such a cute little voice. Hyrum didn’t want to talk. Mom just started her turn yesterday and other than adjusting to new sleeping arrangements (Hyrum!) she said they were doing well—actually Jeremiah better than Hyrum. I looked through all the pictures and the boys’ buzz hair cutts surprised me. One more week—then I’ll need to recover from all this backpacking!